Autumn in Moscow in advance, and much, our customs. At the end of October, generally, the icy gusts coming from the north, are walking fast through the pulling on the lapels of coats, waiting for the first snow. The trees of the gardens have already lost almost all the leaves and branches, apparently dry and blacks, mostrano al cielo la loro nuda disperazione. Una delle mie passeggiate preferite, terminato l'ufficio, era, girato l'angolo sul Kalzò, di fronte alla massa grigia e severa del vecchio Hotel Pekin, percorrere la Tverskaija che, con una leggera discesa, quasi volesse accompagnare i viaggiatori che dopo un lungo viaggio arrivavano da occidente, ti portava, lenta,come lo scorrere del tempo in Russia, fino alle meraviglie del Kremlino. E' una strada larga e un tempo elegante che invita al passeggio sui grandi marciapiedi su cui sfila ininterrotta la serie dei palazzi della Mosca di fine ottocento, un tempo ricchi ed eleganti.
Qui anche nella Mosca disperata degli anni 90, vedevi brillare gli ultimi fuochi del regime. Quel che of goods was available now in the process of disappearance, from every corner of the empire, arrived here to be exhibited in the shops that were to represent a luxury secretly performed at the same time demonstrating the potential richness of the system and the availability of the same for the people in reality had no real willingness to access them. Dorije die-offs in white and blue, you could see some dried fish from the Baltic and some tape of shellfish, shops Atelier, a few sad mannequin on which clothes were hung that theoretically you could go and do on the measure, in the Chase ogle shelves filled with old clocks and watches instead of data as in the mission to repair the shop, were exposed in search of un compratore. Ma, superata la piazza Pushkin, lungo la leggera discesa, ecco apparire a sinistra, al numero 14, una magia inspettata.In un grande palazzo ridondante di stucchi, si aprivano le pesanti porte dell'Eliseev Gastronom.
Nel 1901, il ricco mercante ebreo di San Pietroburgo aveva creato questo negozio che doveva rappresentare il massimo della offerta gastronomica russa in un ambientazione di sfrenato lusso imperiale. Entrare in questo enorme salone decorato in stile neo-barocco era come fare un tuffo nel passato. Sotto il colossale lampadario di cristalli italiani, si alternavano gli antichi banconi lucidi di ottoni e di legni pregiati, sui quali, a settori, potevi trovare le squisitezze più rare e details from all corners of the empire. From the rich wine lounge, where in addition to more traditional vodkas Kognak was also the Armenian Ararat the prized 25-year pass to the meats, rich verietà where to find the most valuable pieces of Mijas Kombinat. A little farther on pulled mahogany mirror, jars made of traditional, arranged like soldiers, under the chandeliers of gold could buy a jar smijetana fresh and so on, walking among the stalls for the pleasure of the eyes, chased from the looks of matrons in a white apron that you showed, probing, the prices stratospheric for residents who wandered sad with the feeling of the look but not touch. That nice to dream under the big clock strikes the hours of a distant past. Did you feel surrounded by Contessine and officers in gala dress, whose ghosts still looking languidly roamed the caviar bar, with its hundreds of cans, jars blue precious Beluga, Sevruga red ones a bit 'rougher, the Yellow Sea of \u200b\u200bAzov, red caviar, the cans of which he was fond of bal'ik Zhenija dear, I brought us the first time.
Among the huge marble columns that rise up to the stained ceiling, heavy gold decorations surrounding large portraits, most notably his own, there he is the famous Eliseev looking at his room with malicious eye, how to make you understand that he was not stupid and that has been able to hide her secret. And now, because legend has it that the rich man, felt the air that changed direction, before to pack, concealed in a secret niche among the gilded stucco and columns, all of its immense treasure, alas, not have been able to go back. The revolution has swept away into the whirlwind of history, leaving only the beautiful environment he had created. I came out with a heavy heart, now dark and sad in the evening, while on the wide sidewalks echoed the laughter of the detachments of beautiful girls who went to the Inturist to lure customers.
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