Grandi magazzini. 
When autumn's cooler and the mist begins to fall from the hills and there is the impending winter, I inevitably take Moscow and the nostalgia of those years of change so interesting for someone like me, who and fortunately I was only an outside observer. Nostalgia for the cold and smoky streets of that darkness that enveloped the city early poorly lit by the dim yellow light of street lamps, the loneliness of those wide streets, dilapidated and lack of equipment. When walking slowly on large uneven sidewalks, with shapka of yellow hair fell over his head and the scarf wrapped around his mouth good, that frost does not penetrate directly to give you that subtle stinging which reported a temperature at which I was not used, I ended invariably in Red Square, after crossing the large open space with calm hippodrome.
There was still the great portal was rebuilt a few years later resemblance to the original and, after the austere building of the Lenin Museum, arrived at the nearly deserted main square, walking on the pavement, slightly domed, gray and awaiting the first snow . On the bottom of the peaks colored St. Basil's, eyeing a strict enforcement of the dark granite mausoleum tromboneggiante leaning against the high wall of the Kremlin. You felt like a sleepy waiting for a threat of change, desired but feared at the same time, as if the news could not never be positive. The only significant movement was on the left side of the square and streets that converge there. The people in coats intabarrata dublionke lysis and bald, women engulfed in fluffy angora sweaters of China, arrived in droves and threw themselves, to escape the gusts of wind from the north, in the long building that stretched across that side of the square.
were the GUM department store (Gosudarstvennyi Universalnyi Magazin - State General Store), at the same time Toyland and showcase / image of the USSR at that time. The building of the 800's clearly inspired by the fashion stores of La Fayette, however, had not been able to copy pretty lightweight, but its deliberate grandeur I gave a heavy version and provincial levels, typical of those powerful, wants to adapt to fashion and elegance that are not their own. The building had, however, over time, acquired its dignified majesty. Entered through the triple doors ramshackle, where a current similar to a hurricane was blowing steadily. It was the difference, sometimes 50 degrees between inside and outside to make it so violent and constant. So were you taken the step of shot, frost the road, surrounded in an atmosphere of warm and humid and sweaty smell that soon became accustomed. Here you opened the buttons, you will spread the scarf and soon faded away the sense of unease. How does the man soon to become accustomed to the smell, the rotten, physical discomfort followed by ease the moral. In a short time it all seems natural, normal, given that all will be right if they do so. Before you opened up the prospect of the big three covered galleries on three floors which opened the parade of shops that had given the original name Verchnie torgovye rjady (number of quality shops).
was a whole succession of outlets in the most popular Russian crafts, interspersed with shops of clothes, hats, shoes and other consumer goods coveted by Moscow and in most cases desolately half-empty or with some sample dusty, poorly exposed on shelves. Yet this was the showcase of the USSR, but the refrigerators were exposed only photos and you could go and get in the list, after paying of course, for the chance that one day I was handed the coveted indefinite appliance. It was this, together with the proverbial discourtesy and rudeness of orders, its main feature. I I went here and there, enjoying the best views as one of the central space, where the second gallery, dominated by the large fountain which occupied the junction with the side aisles under the glass dome of liberty. I enjoyed all the stalls snubbed by the Russians, losing myself among the cans of Palech beautifully illuminated, colorful wooden pins, great blacks shawls embroidered with flowers, beautiful wooden toys, pendants amber from the Baltic, large wooden spoons and containers red and blacks with motifs painted in gold, dolls ukraine. I am morbidly attracted a large store where they were neatly set out the beautiful pottery Djeli, white and blue, where invariably let my mite, andandomene with my package wrapped in an old Pravda, which contained a dish with tender chicken egg holder portasale center or a cup soft edges, whose decoration was signed by some unknown artist.
The prices were ridiculous for us with the strength of the dollar raping the weak economy and shaky. Now things have changed, first the G no longer means of GUM and Highways Department, but each shop performs the most famous brand worldwide fashion, perfumes, jewelry, luxury, dedicated to the new Russia. No more room for delicate ceramic cups colored knit fox, small carvings of bone Siberia, but the vulgarity of American International sports shoes made in Indonesia, written with clothes made in China, with French names perfumes, jewelry from the Italian form. Will certainly have changed also the heavy glass doors creaking and the place of the old bar that was only dry butterbrodi with butter and herring, now there will be a nice club with international drinks and cocktails. But people will continue to flow before the windows so empty, now full of things you can not buy, throwing the same sad eyes waiting for a change, as always desired and feared, even though it has always been, things will change so that everything remains as before.
